A plain concrete driveway typically runs $6 to $12 per square foot installed in the US, which puts a standard two-car driveway somewhere around $4,000 to $8,000. That range is wide for a reason, and the reason is almost never the concrete itself. This guide breaks down where the money actually goes, so you can tell a fair quote from a bad one.
What's in this guide
These are planning ranges, not quotes. Concrete pricing moves with region, season, fuel costs and local labour markets, and it moves fast. Treat every figure here as a starting point for conversation with local contractors, not a number to hold anyone to. Figures reflect typical US pricing as of 2026.
What It Costs, by Driveway Size
Driveways are priced per square foot, so the first thing to work out is your area. These are common sizes at the typical $6–$12 per square foot installed range for a plain broom finish:
| Driveway | Size | Area | Typical Installed Cost | DIY Materials Only |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Single, short | 10 × 20 ft | 200 sq ft | $1,200 – $2,400 | $600 – $1,000 |
| Single, standard | 12 × 24 ft | 288 sq ft | $1,700 – $3,500 | $900 – $1,450 |
| Two-car | 20 × 20 ft | 400 sq ft | $2,400 – $4,800 | $1,200 – $2,000 |
| Two-car, long | 20 × 30 ft | 600 sq ft | $3,600 – $7,200 | $1,800 – $3,000 |
| Long rural drive | 12 × 100 ft | 1,200 sq ft | $7,200 – $14,400 | $3,600 – $6,000 |
The DIY column is materials only — concrete, base stone, forms, and reinforcement. It excludes excavation, equipment rental, and the fact that a driveway pour is genuinely hard to do well without a crew. More on that below.
Work out your exact concrete volume first
Concrete Driveway Calculator →What Actually Drives the Price
Two quotes for the same driveway can differ by 40% and both be honest. These are the variables that move the number, roughly in order of impact:
1. Removing what is already there
Tearing out and hauling away an existing concrete driveway commonly adds $1 to $3 per square foot. Concrete is heavy and disposal is priced by weight, so a thick old slab with wire mesh in it costs more to remove than a thin one. If your quote seems high, check whether demolition is in it.
2. Thickness and reinforcement
A driveway should be at least 4 inches thick, and 5 to 6 inches if trucks or RVs will use it. Going from 4 to 6 inches raises your concrete volume by 50%, and concrete is the single biggest material line. Rebar or mesh adds a modest amount but is worth it — see our driveway calculator for the volume difference.
3. Site access and prep
If the truck can back up to the forms, the pour is fast. If concrete has to be wheelbarrowed 80 feet around a house, or pumped over it, labour climbs sharply and a pump adds several hundred dollars. Sloped sites, poor drainage, soft soil needing extra base, and tree roots all add cost before any concrete arrives.
4. Finish
A broom finish is the baseline. Stamping, colouring, exposed aggregate and saw-cut patterns are labour-intensive and can double the price per square foot. See the finish table below.
5. Region and season
Labour rates vary enormously between metro areas and rural markets, and concrete plants price by haul distance. Booking in the busy season, or asking for a small pour, both cost more per yard — most plants add a short-load fee of $50 to $150 under about 3 cubic yards.
Finish Options and What They Add
| Finish | Typical Added Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Broom finish | Baseline | Slip-resistant, cheapest, the default for good reason |
| Saw-cut pattern | +$1 – $3 / sq ft | Decorative joints in an otherwise plain slab |
| Integral colour | +$1 – $4 / sq ft | Pigment mixed through; fades far less than a surface stain |
| Exposed aggregate | +$2 – $6 / sq ft | Durable and grippy; hides staining well |
| Stamped concrete | +$6 – $12 / sq ft | Highest labour; needs resealing every 2–3 years |
One thing worth knowing before you choose stamped: it is not a one-time cost. Stamped and coloured surfaces need resealing every two to three years to hold their appearance, and a neglected stamped driveway looks considerably worse than a neglected broom-finished one.
DIY vs Hiring Out
Materials for a driveway are roughly half the installed price, which makes DIY look attractive. The honest assessment is that a driveway is one of the worst first concrete projects.
- The clock is brutal. Once the truck arrives you have roughly an hour to place, screed and start finishing. A 20 × 20 ft driveway at 5 inches is over 6 cubic yards — around 12 tons of concrete moving fast.
- It needs a crew. Realistically three or four people who have done it before, working simultaneously.
- Mistakes are permanent and visible. A wavy screed, a cold joint where you fell behind, or finishing over bleed water all show forever on a surface you look at every day.
- The prep is most of the work anyway. Excavation, base, forms and reinforcement are where the labour hours actually go — and those you genuinely can do yourself.
A sensible middle path: do the demolition, excavation and base prep yourself, then hire a crew for the pour and finish. That removes a large slice of the labour cost while leaving the time-critical, skill-dependent part to people who do it daily. Confirm with the contractor first — many will happily quote pour-and-finish only, but they will want to inspect your base.
How to Compare Three Quotes
Get at least three, and make sure they are quoting the same job. Ask every contractor to put these in writing:
- Slab thickness in inches. A quote for 4 inches is not comparable to one for 5.
- Concrete strength in PSI. Driveways want 4,000 PSI, and air entrainment in freeze-thaw regions.
- Base depth and material — how many inches of what, and whether it will be compacted in lifts.
- Reinforcement — rebar size and spacing, or mesh, or fibre only.
- Control joint spacing and whether joints are tooled or saw-cut.
- Whether demolition and haul-away are included, and what happens to the spoil.
- Drainage — the finished slope, and where water goes.
- Warranty — what it covers, and specifically what it says about cracking.
A quote that is dramatically lower than the others usually differs on thickness, base depth, or PSI. Those are the three places cost gets cut invisibly, and all three show up years later as cracking or settlement. Ask what changed rather than assuming you found a bargain.
Where You Can Save — and Where You Should Not
Reasonable savings
- Do the demo and excavation yourself. The biggest DIY-able labour block.
- Choose a broom finish. It is the most slip-resistant option as well as the cheapest.
- Pour in the shoulder season. Contractors are less booked in spring and autumn than mid-summer.
- Reduce the area. Narrowing a long drive by two feet, or shortening an apron, saves real money.
- Combine with a neighbour. Two adjacent pours on one day can share mobilisation and short-load fees.
False economies
- Going below 4 inches. This is the classic mistake. A 3-inch driveway will crack under normal vehicle loads.
- Skipping or thinning the base. Base failure causes settlement that cannot be repaired without removing the slab.
- Dropping to a patio-grade mix. 3,000 PSI is fine for a walkway and inadequate for vehicles and de-icing salt.
- Omitting air entrainment in a freeze-thaw climate. It is the main defence against surface scaling and costs very little.
- Widening joint spacing to save saw-cutting time. Joints decide where concrete cracks; fewer joints means cracks of the concrete's choosing.
The pattern is consistent: saving on labour you can supply yourself is sensible, and saving on the slab's specification is not. A driveway is expected to last 25 to 40 years, and everything on the false-economy list shortens that materially.
Estimate concrete, base and cost for your driveway
Open the Driveway Calculator →Frequently Asked Questions
How much does a 20x20 concrete driveway cost?
A 20 × 20 ft driveway is 400 square feet, so at the typical $6–$12 per square foot installed it runs roughly $2,400 to $4,800 for a plain broom finish. Add $1–$3 per square foot if an existing driveway has to be removed first.
Is a concrete driveway cheaper than asphalt?
No — asphalt is typically cheaper to install and concrete is cheaper to own. Asphalt usually costs less up front but needs sealing every few years and generally lasts 15–20 years. Concrete costs more initially and commonly lasts 25–40 years with little maintenance.
How thick should a concrete driveway be?
At least 4 inches for standard passenger vehicles, and 5 to 6 inches where trucks, RVs or heavy deliveries will use it. Thicken the edge where the drive meets the street, since slabs almost always fail at the edges first.
Does removing the old driveway cost extra?
Yes, commonly $1 to $3 per square foot. Disposal is priced by weight, so a thick old slab with wire mesh costs more to remove than a thin one. Always check whether a quote includes demolition and haul-away, because it is the most common reason two quotes differ.
Why is one quote so much cheaper than the others?
Usually because it specifies less: a thinner slab, a shallower base, a lower PSI mix, or fewer control joints. All three of the first are invisible once the concrete is down and all show up years later as cracking or settlement. Ask what specifically differs rather than assuming you found a bargain.
Can I pour a driveway myself to save money?
You can, but it is a poor first concrete project. Once the truck arrives you have about an hour to place, screed and begin finishing several tons of concrete, and it realistically needs three or four experienced people. A better split is to do the demolition, excavation and base yourself and hire out the pour and finish.
How much does stamped concrete add?
Roughly $6 to $12 per square foot on top of a plain slab, sometimes doubling the total. It also carries an ongoing cost: stamped and coloured surfaces need resealing every two to three years to keep their appearance.
How long does a concrete driveway last?
25 to 40 years with an adequate base, correct thickness and properly spaced joints. Sealing every two to three years helps considerably in regions that use de-icing salt, which is the main chemical threat to a concrete surface.
When can I drive on a new concrete driveway?
Wait 7 days minimum before light vehicles, and the full 28-day cure before regular or heavy use. Foot traffic is fine after 24 to 48 hours. Driving on it early is one of the few ways to damage a correctly built slab.
Do I need a permit for a driveway?
Often yes, particularly where the driveway meets the public road, and many jurisdictions regulate the apron and the culvert separately. Impervious-surface limits also apply in some areas. Check with your local building department before ordering anything — a reputable contractor will handle this, and one who dismisses it is a warning sign.